Throughout this post there are mentions of food items. When I was constructing the bases I kept everyone updated on my progress on LJ. The problem was, the design needed to be kept secret, so each part was given a code name. The code names were not planned, they just sort of spontaneously ended up to be mostly sandwich parts. At no time did I ever post what food was which parts, or even what material was being used, so no-one could "figure out" what I was talking about.
The first thing I had to do was glue patterns onto the wood. The legs and base-bottoms were cut from .75" thick mahogany and the roses were cut from .125" thick. Starting with the bases, I rough-cut the bottom halves, aluminum pieces and roses. I also cut disks that would act as placeholders for the glass for most of the process.
In this picture you are looking at a base bottom (lower crust). The final base was curved but at this stage it has straight edges. There are little blocks of wood screwed onto the ends to make sure the aluminum parts lined up correctly. The aluminum parts were cut from some bar-stock 1"wide x .125" thick. The curved area leaves a space for the glass to be added later. I don't recall having a code name for the aluminum, this step was done before the code names were created.

After the aluminum was glued in place, the rose layer (upper crust) was screwed on with 3 little screws in the corner. The bolt was also used to make sure everything lined up throughout the whole process. In between the upper and lower crusts, there is a disk of wood where the glass would be. This helps to protect the rose layer from breaking during the process because it was fairly thin and, at this point, brittle. Darkwing830 referred to this stack as a sandwich and the whole food-references thing was born.
I then took the sandwiches down to my bandsaw and cut them to their curved shape. By cutting all three layers at once I was insuring that they would all line up perfectly. After they were cut I clamped each one into my vice and hand-sanded all of the saw marks out. I tried using my power sander but I didn't have as much control as I liked and I was losing my crisp edges.

All of the sandwiches were disassembled and carefully labeled, both for which parts went together but for orientation as well. The bottom part was taken downstairs for clear-coat and the rose layer was taken upstairs for more work. Thanks
rileybear67 for sanding!
All of the wood & aluminum parts got at least 10 coats of lacquer. Shiny!!! The parts were suspended on threads hanging from our clothes line. The threads have 1" toothpick segments tied to their ends. The toothpicks would slide thru the bolt/screw holes and create a toggle to hold the parts up for spraying. This way I could coat everything evenly without worrying about them sticking to anything.

A shot of the bases before and after clear-coat. It's often hard to tell just how rich a piece of wood will be before it's finished. A trick I learned when I dabbled in lapidary is to lick the wood. Not healthy, and you get funny looks, but it works.

Before the bottom halves went down for clear-coat, they were used to help strengthen the rose layer. The wood for the roses was bolted down to their respective bases but upside down. Their undersides were then saturated with 2 coats of watered-down Elmer's white glue (mayo). The glue was absorbed by the wood, adding strength and flexibility. This was necessary if the wood was not going to survive the cutting and filing process without breaking or splitting. This is a shot of the Elmer's drying.

Next, the rose layer was removed from the bases and the rose detail was cut. Cutting was done by hand with a 2/0 scroll-saw blade in a jeweler’s saw frame. After cutting, the edges were filed smooth, making minor adjustments and corrections at the same time. After filing, the roses were sanded and hung for clear-coat.

While I was waiting for various parts to dry, I cut, filed, and drilled the stained glass (ham). The particular variety used was called Mimosa. Never having worked with glass before I made sure all of the cuts I had to make were straight. I was most concerned about drilling the hole in the center. When I originally took it to the stained glass shop, to farm out the drilling, the person at the counter literally sucked her teeth at my request. That was a bad sign.
When making the sample base, I went to our local big-box home improvement store and bought a glass & tile drill bit. It cut thru the glass like a dream. So I just did all the drilling myself.
Below is a shot of the bottom halves, before the glass was glued in and then another shot after.

Other parts in the base were the brass tubes that protect the glass and the wooden plugs that hide the bolt-hole in the bottom (cookies). The tubes were cut just a hair higher than the top of the roses, so they couldn’t crank the Hugo rockets down onto the glass and break it. The plugs were disks, hand-cut from rose scraps, which we signed and dated.

Once we had a bunch of the components done, there was this whole assembly process. The roses were glued to the aluminum, the bolts were glued in their holes, the brass tubes were glued around the bolts and the wooden plugs were glued in the bottom.
You can see several of the assembly steps in this picture.

And finished sandwiches in this one.

Then there were the legs. 26 bases (24 required plus 2 extra) x 3 legs each = 78 legs. At .5hr each, just to sand, we spent more than 37 man-hours on the legs alone. That doesn’t include cutting, drilling and finishing time.
Just like the bases, the legs were cut on my bandsaw. There was a first rough-cut, the holes were marked and drilled, and then a final cut. I’ve said this lots of times, to many people, but I would never have gotten thru this without
darkwing830 . He literally sanded until his fingers were cracked and bleeding so that we would make ship-date.

After cutting and sanding, they were hung for clear-coat and then set out to “cure.” In fact all of the pieces, except for some of the last roses, spent almost a week sitting out so they would completely dry. Even still, I was told that when opened, the shipping boxes were filled with heady fumes.

The final component was the tiny little aluminum plugs used to hide the screw-hole on the legs (pimento). I took a length of aluminum rod down to the bandsaw and sliced off 78 little disks which had to all be sanded and clear-coated.

The legs went on quickly and the plugs were tapped in.
Below is a finished base, with darkwing830 holding a Pseudo Hugo made from foam core. The fake rocket helped throughout the design process to make sure I had good proportions.

And finally 6 finished bases, waiting to be packed for shipping.

August 21 2005, 20:30:58 UTC 6 years ago
August 21 2005, 21:19:25 UTC 6 years ago
August 21 2005, 20:32:06 UTC 6 years ago
I don't suppose this is the time to tell you that my Hugo, and some others, have developed a wobble? The screw appears to have become loose inside the base, so that the rocket can't be tightened, or removed for packing.
This is probably pretty academic now, as the Hugo's on my mantlepiece and isn't likely to go anywhere ever... but if there's a way to sort it out I'd be interested to know.
August 21 2005, 20:33:20 UTC 6 years ago
August 21 2005, 21:13:15 UTC 6 years ago
Rrrr.
I took 2 precautions to make sure the bolts wouldn't turn but it looks like both failed. The first is that darkwing830 hand-carved a hex-shaped chamber inside the base so that the bolt wouldn't turn and to make doubly sure we epoxied the bolt in place. Hmph.To tighten, I would suggest pulling up un the rocket as you turn it. This might cause the head to "engage" the hex-carved chamber.
August 21 2005, 21:44:41 UTC 6 years ago
Re: Rrrr.
Hmm. We tried that, but will try again.This is all caused by rampant Hugo abuse on the Sunday night of Worldcon; apparently it is good luck to cuddle someone else's Hugo. Or something like that.
August 21 2005, 22:28:25 UTC 6 years ago
Re: Rrrr.
I have one other thing you may try, but it's riskier and might not work.If you can fit a pair of needle-nose pliers between the rocket and base, you may be able to hold the bolt while you unscrew the rocket. Then, you could gently tap on the bolt to knock the plug out of the bottom. The plug is glued in with Elmer's White and may or may not cooperate. *If* it does come out, you would have access to the bolt head.
I had been tempted to run around the reception, snugging up the rockets, and now I'm thinking I shouldn'tve resisted that temptation.
August 22 2005, 21:05:32 UTC 6 years ago
Re: Rrrr.
From the sound of it the space below the rocket and the top of the base is going to be a bit tight to get the pliers in to grip the bolt. There is another method to grip the bolt, but is potentially a little messy, that is to wrap thread around the bolt so that it falls into the grooves, pull tight and unscrew the rocket then continue as you stated. Oh the Messy bit - some synthetic threads are too smooth th apply sufficient friction so before use run the thread through some coarse pumice powder (really grind it into the thread) to increase the friction. (I've had fair success with sisal and coarse Pumice powder, on other jobs).August 21 2005, 21:08:46 UTC 6 years ago
Anonymous
August 22 2005, 21:24:36 UTC 6 years ago
the Hugo
I'm not anonymous, I'm Guy Lillian, and I've got to tell you that Interaction's is the most attractive Hugo I've ever lost! Marvelous job, people!August 22 2005, 13:30:07 UTC 6 years ago
August 22 2005, 15:06:29 UTC 6 years ago
I had not originally planned to cut each one individually, I was hoping to be able to afford a scroll-saw before the project began. That way I'd be able to cut stacks of 3-5 at a time. Unfortunately, that didn't happen. In reality, the cutting only took about 15min each, but the filing (which I still would have had to do with a scroll saw) took about 2hrs each and that was the real killer.
Now I just pretend it was all intentional and that I wanted to keep in the Hand Crafted tradition of the Arts & Crafts Movement. Yeah, that's it....